Svårighetsgrad för klättringen/vandringen
En av de vanligaste skalorna att mäta svårighetsgraden på en klättringsrutt är den franska internationella skalan. Vi har valt att gradera våra trekking peaks-klättringar efter detta system. Då vi tycker att det ger ett bättre och lättare intryck för alla att förstå svårigheten än att sätta sin egen gradering, vilket är betydligt mer svårtolkat för den intresserade klättraren.
På de högre bergen, oftast från +7000 meter använder vi en sifferskala kombinerat med en bokstav som du kan avläsa nedan för att förstå vilken svårighetsgrad du står inför.
Nedan följer den franska graderingen samt graderingssystem för berg på +7000 meter på engelska.
Längst ned på listan hittar du de olika svårighetsgraderna för vandringar.
Overall Grade Description
F Facile (Easy) A straight forward route, possibly describing a glacier approach with simple scrambling. Any snow or ice will be of an easy angle allowing the climber to walk up it.
PD Peu difficile (not very hard) Harder than routes graded F, with more complex glacier routes, harder scrambling and objective dangers. Routes may also be longer and at altitude. Snow and ice slopes of up 35-45 degrees may be encountered.
AD Assez difficile (fairly hard) More significant slopes of snow and ice will be encountered up to 40-55 degrees. Rock climbing up to grade III may also be encountered but are unlikely to be sustained
D Difficile (hard) A more serious undertaking with possibility of rock climbing at around grade IV & V and snow and ice slopes of up 50-70 degrees.
TD Tres difficile (very hard) Significant and sustained snow and ice slopes of up 65-80 degrees are likely encountered. Hard rock climbing is also a possibility at grades V – VI with some aid routes also a possibility. Routes at this grade are a serious undertaking with high levels of objective danger.
ED Extremement difficile (extremely hard) Extremely hard routes with vertical ice slopes likely and rock climbing at VI to VIII. Aid pitches are also possible with exceptional objective danger.
ABOAbominablement difficile (Abominable) Pretty self explanatory!
It is now common for routes to be given a + or – within the grade to cater for superior of inferior routes. In addition to this, if you are reading an Alpine Club guide, you may also find that some of the ice pitches are described using the Scottish Technical Grade (see above).
Expedition Grading System:
Variable grades are given where there are options for different levels of climbers
Grading routes can be a complex combination of factors including:
The technical difficulties of the crucial sections of the route
Length of the route
Height of the peak
Objective dangers
The overall grade is defined within a scale of 1 to 6 for technical difficulty together with a letter grade A-D which indicates the level of fitness required alongside other variable factors. All technical difficulties described for each grade may not be relevant, for example if the route is predominately on snow then rock climbing skills may not be required. Please feel free to contact Trekking Encounters if you are in doubt as to whether your experience or fitness would match your choice of expedition.
Fitness:
Overall Grade Description
A Good basic fitness, as for climbing Munro’s. Average rucksack weight 6-8 kg.
B Good cardio-vascular fitness that would normally require some training, by running, cycling or gym work. Average rucksack weight 8-12 kg.
C Training would tend to become essential to attain a good level of fitness. Previous experience of multi-day walking is recommended along with physical toughness and the ability to carry a heavy rucksack for long periods. Average rucksack weight 12-18kg.
D A high level of all round fitness will be required to cope with the exceptionally strenuous nature of these expeditions. A resistance to extreme weather conditions over extended periods of time. Heavy loads over multiple days may need to be carried. Expect some weight loss.
E Same as ’D’ with the addition of hard physical effort at extreme altitude which will require thorough preparation. May cause long term fatigue after trip.
Expedition Fitness:
In all cases your chance of success and level of enjoyment will depend very much on your level of fitness. The grading system set out above gives you an indication of the level required for each expedition.
Technical Difficulty (could include):
Overall Grade Description
Grade 1: Easy scrambling, broad scree or low angled snow ridges at angles up to 30 degrees. Ropes are not usually required. Previous climbing experience is not essential.
Grade 2: Snow and ice sections at a low angle of up to 30 degrees. Ice axe and crampon experience necessary. Climbing experience useful but not essential.
Grade 3: Snow and ice sections at an angle 45-50 degrees. Previous snow and ice climbing experience is essential. (Alpine F- PD. Scottish Grade III. Rock D).
Grade 4: Snow and ice sections at angles over 45 degrees with steep steps. Rock sections up to VD. Confident mountaineering skills including some rock and ice leading experience. Previous Alpine climbing or high altitude experience is normally required unless technically very confident beyond the grades below. (Alpine AD+. Scottish Grade III. Rock VD-S).
Grade 5: Sections of very steep snow and ice at angles over 50 degrees. Rock sections up to Severe. Suitable only for experienced mountaineers who can be self-sufficient, previous alpine experience is essential. (Alpine D-TD. Scottish Grade III/IV or harder. Rock S-VS).
Grade 6: Very steep snow and ice with sustained steep ice pitches, Rock sections up to HVS, possibly requiring the use of aiding techniques. (Alpine TD. Scottish Grade IV/VI or harder Rock HVS).
Trek Grading
T1 – No previous trekking experience is necessary, but you need to be an active hillwalker. You should consider training prior to your trek, as typically you will be walking between 4 – 6 hours over several consecutive days and usually at high altitude. Be prepared for rough and rocky trails and the occasional snow patch.
T2 – Previous trekking experience is necessary. There will be lots of consecutive days of tough trekking, and/or longer days for crossing high passes, for example. There will be glacier crossings on snow/ice, which do not require the use of ice axe and crampons. Overall, trails may be vague in places, with some sections of very rough and rocky ground.
T3 – Previous trekking and ice axe and crampon experience required. Tough multi-day trekking at high altitude, often over glaciated terrain. Crossings of glaciated passes which require the use of ice axe and crampons.